For the rub: Combine spices in a large bowl, adding salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste. Toss the wings in the spice mixture, and let wings sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Arrange wings on wire racks set on sheet trays. Place the wings in a cold oven and set for 275°F. Cook for 30 minutes, until the fat begins to render and drip down onto the trays.
Raise oven temperature to 475°F. Continue to cook wings until golden brown and crispy, about 30-45 minutes more, rotating the trays and flipping the wings halfway through the cooking. If the wings are not crispy after 45 minutes, run them under the broiler until crispiness is achieved. After the wings are crispy, let them cool slightly. Cut chicken into wings and drumettes, if desired.
For the sauce: Mix hot sauce and barbecue sauce together. Pour half the sauce around the edges of a large bowl. Add the wings and toss to coat, adding reserved sauce as necessary. Serve immediately with celery, carrots, and blue cheese sauce for dipping.
These smoky-sweet wings get a complex heat from a combination dry-rub and sauce. The two-temperature baking method gives them a satisfying crunch without frying.
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